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I'd vote ( because of cost ) Hardi-Backer or ceramic tile or both. Steel floor would be cool too. I'll look into that for my own use.

I ran one at a show this last spring. Not nearly as fast as every video shows them. The one I looked at (just for fun) was 16K plus setup materials. Someday they will will be 5K and still out of reach for 50% of the fab shops and 90% of the rest of the guys.

Be sure you are electrode negative, Turn your balance to around 20% instead of 40% where you have it now. Flip the pulse on and set at 1-2 pulses per second to slow everything down and pulse and background current to 50%..try that.

One thing about plasma cutters. I agree that 40+ amps is the way to go but it's also about Kilowatts. Hypertherm and Thermal Dynamics use higher kilowatt output so they can do more with less. Many of the cheap plasma cutters are a little weak in the kilowatt department and you'll notice that...

Always fun until someone loses an arm.. Seems like the other style splitter with the wedge out on the end would be better. Sure glad last year was my last year to burn wood. Processed 12-15 cord yearly. Nice video just the same.

Nice one. I built similar to take cherry and hickory down to size for the smoker.

Most paid no mind to the flame but I just had to ask them. That's a pretty standard gun that comes on many of the low cost machines. It's a Binzel look a alike but I think it's made in China by Powerweld. Doesn't make it bad. Many of the graphics on the import products are done by folks who...

That same gun and pic was posted on E-bay so I sent them a message and asked how thick it would cut. The reply was " it depends on how many amps." :unsure:

Better and easier to just upgrade welders. You'd be happy with the next level machine. Good Luck !

Just sell it as a replacement or spare gun to fit Miller and most Hobarts. Thing is these guns are pretty inexpensive on Amazon and E-bay. Under $100.

Aftermarket Binzel style handle with Miller front and back. Missing the screw on cap on the back. 2 pin trigger wires like most. Appears to be an ATTC Lightning or Tregaskiss liner. Threaded.

I also vote new O-rings and maybe a little extra tightness on the tip nut.

You also need bigger wire. You will over volt the 030 before you reach the bead shape and penetration needed. So electrode negative, ground positive and 035 wire at least. Pre-heat can be your friend as well.

I made a portable air tank out of a 20# propane tank 30 years go. Still smells like propane. Must be the nasty additive.

I like the little 115v/230v tig stick inverters. If you can find one with power factor correction (PFC) you can un a good 10ga extension cord 50' on 115v 20amp and not lose a lot of output. plus you can do cast, stainless and aluminum at any time with it.

The 2# spools are kind of exempt from the cast test. Especially cored wire but what you show here has a lot to do with feeding issues. Like trying to run a slinky through your mig gun.

Another thing that doesn't get discussed much in the forum wire world is Cast and Helix. Both contribute to poor wire feeding and consumables wear. To test your cast just carefully let 2-3 loops of wire off your spool and snip it. Gently lay it on the floor and measure the loop width. AWS allows...

You are doing the right thing by storing it with the desiccant. Humidity is the killer. it's all about storage. I remember a company who moved all of their cored wire to the corner and along a damp wall. When sold it looked good but was full of worm track and porosity. If you decide to go with...

PM me an address and I'll send you some filler metals.

Refresh my memory on your rod size. I think you are using 5356.

Weldmark is the brand logo of the IWDC. They are a buyers group that offers independent welding distributors a one stop lower cost alternative. Most of the stuff is good and private labeled brand name stuff that's subject to change at any time.

Major progress !

Yeah, Some solid wires spatter more than others but are usually still better than flux core.

Most imported welders are designed to run on CO2. Dialed in with good wire, proper gun angle and stick out you can do some nice hot welding with CO2 at a fraction of your 75/25 gas.

Those Magic rods are simply Zinc. Harris 52, Weldcote Alumite, Aladin. Many others. Sticks to anything but not very well. I used to show it at farm shows fixing bullet holes in irrigation pipe. Worked great at the show. Not so much out in the field.

Left Minneapolis on Monday morning. It was -21 with a -48 wind chill. Arrived in AZ +70 degrees and sunny. What a difference 2 hrs and 40 minutes makes. Glad I have the option.

Minnesota is the Frozen Tundra version of Cali. The big difference is it's going to be -13 tonight and people still stay and pay crazy Cali taxes with the crazy Cali style politicians.

I live 20 miles from the nearest stop light but spend 1/2 my time in the largest cities in the midwest. Seem to catch my breath again once I get home.

Pretty much get what you pay for. There are a couple diamonds in the rough out there but they mainly come from the larger OEM companies like Hobart, Lincoln, ESAB etc. I personally wouldn't use HF wire at all. Others have some luck with it.

I also use a rolling table most of the time. Well when its above zero. For cutting and welding. A friend just picked up a large stainless steel gas grill for free. He did a few light mods and that is his roll out cutting / welding table. I imagine it would hold 75# or so and the stainless grates...

I only have 2 put up in the freeze. I really could make use of 1 more. Better buckle down for snow hunting.

Apron out the shop door is great. I do as much cutting and welding out there as possible. Better light, less smoke and no fires.

I did the same a few years back. No more laying on the floor to drain the water out. I hooked a short hose on mine and just spray it out the door when needed.

I had that in both elbows from shoveling sand a few years back Took 6 months to get better. Very cautious about stretching now. Bad stuff..

You can always sell off and switch back or like me, Have both. I keep acetylene for torch welding and critical brazing and spray powder repairs.

Seems like all of the large cutting tables are using some sort of alternate fuel instead of acetylene. I never really see any slag or dross issues unless they travel too fast or too slow. The nicest cuts I see are at an AGCO plant .They use oxygen and natural gas at about 4psi.

Pretty much so. Some would probably depend on rosebud use but the savings are real.

Propylene if I remember right, For the same price as acetylene would last 3x longer. Still, acetylene has strong staying power. We would go to end users and show the benefits of alternate fuels and the savings they create. The customer would always switch. Stop back a couple months later and...

Not sure but if you look at the cut charts for acetylene and alternate fuels the settings are very similar. All around savings are crazy though.

Well you're set up now.. Plus the tips are easier to clean and you can stand off the cut and stay out of the puddle. You can light both gases at the same time on the lower pressures. The alternate fuels really only use more oxygen during pre-heat and that's negligible. I keep some acetylene...

I remember watching the dealer mount a 25hp on my 1st boat. they said that the cavitation plate above the prop should be 1" higher than the bottom of the hull if the motor has no trim. Seemed to work well. I actually lowered one to fit a short shaft 18hp one time and it wasn't too bad of a job.

I have 4 of each of the small porta torch tanks. some sit for 3-4 years and I have never had a problem with the valves.

Worst case would "probably" be to use a multi bank charger like I have in my boat. I charge 2 12v hooked up for 24v for my trolling motor and a single 12v for starting all at the same time. Some folks are charging 36v trolling motor setups with the same charger but it's all done with 12v output...

I see that they are selling some Lithium Ion batteries for golf carts now. So far the price is prohibitive but they are bragging about life, weight and no water. Dakota brand.

Likely just a Solder?

Not sure on the HF anvil but years back I bought the largest HF bench vise. One day I was beating on a U Joint and a good sized hunk of body putty broke off of the vise. I would hope that wouldn't happen to the Anvil.

I have 2 Evolution saws. One large chop and a slide miter. Both are as loud or louder than anything that makes noise. Still quicker for angles and are more round stock friendly than my band saw. The large chop saw has only made a few cuts and I'm trying to swap it for a mag drill. The rep is a...

Plasma for me. Some Oxy-fuel and small cutoffs.

In preparation for winter I was stabilizing my engines. Thinking about it I had to laugh at how many engines I have to maintain. 3 vehicles, 1 tractor, 3 chainsaws, 2 weed eaters, 1 pole saw, 3 ZT mowers, 1 push mower, 1 power washer, 1 outboard motor, 2 ATV's, 3 generators and a Log splitter...

One of the buckets I added hooks to had a fairly thin top where the hooks were to go. I welded 4" x 4" 3/16" thick plates to the bucket and then the hooks to the plates. Most any electrode will get it done.

Put the boat away ( ran a tube of grease through each hub with Milwaukee 18v gun. Drained and filled lower unit, Backed in in and hooked up battery tender. We have snow on the ground here. Next it was an attempt to replace the starter in my F250 V10 plow truck. I'm nearly convinced that it can't...

Interesting. I wonder why they don't just do that when new? Must have something to do with amp hours or something.

Congrats on the Racks. I'm still after them. I've done 6 Euro's. If you want a few tips let me know.

Putting up wood, Prepping plow truck ( on property only truck ) and yes yard lockdown in prep for the 1st Blizzard and -25 day.

That hood really doesn't do anything special for you. The new tech hoods actually look nearly clear while welding. ($140 ) Also try a Cheater Lens at about 2.0. I'd be leery of most Amazon reviews.

Nice to have a table.. My wedge is on the front end so I made my table a 3' wide flip up made out of 3/4" black pipe. I also made a hydraulic log lift which is true game changer. I burn a LOT of wood.

Took a Doe for the freezer last night. Now waiting for the Rut.

You don't always get a complete slag covering on the welds. It's kinda all over the place. Your spatter looks terrible. What size spool or wire are you using? 2# -10# ? 035?

You are running electrode negative right? is this 71T-GS or 71T-11 ? . The -11 runs 10x better than TGS

Yep. Sounds like it's been on the shelf too long. It starts to act like hard wire with no gas when it goes bad.

I've built several and then never used. One for the road and one to haul deer on my 4 wheeler. The one for the road I made so the corner posts would screw out to make a flatbed.

Could have used this when one of mine went down with the tree.

Our Bow season opens tomorrow. I'm ready. Got big boys on the cams. I'm 10 miles west of LaCrosse WI.

Bucket technique is a killer. Kinda gross but very effective. I just took a 3/32 Tig rod and ran it through a soda can lengthwise and across the pail. Couple blobs of peanut butter on 2 sides of the can. Set outside against my wood pile and in the morning I had 9 mice.

I have a couple tote sets and a bunch of tanks. More for total portability or emergency. I love them but then, I don't have to pay for the gas.

It's a lost art. I enjoy all aspects of oxy-fuel welding and brazing. Not the best or fastest way to get things done but a great hobby. There are a lot of cool filler metals out there for the torch.

It's a Great machine but you can start over new for less than that and enjoy New

Agree 100% no harm backing off the gas until you get porosity and then turn it up a few CFH. No sense wasting gas. Black is a base metal issue. I like your progress o far !

I did this once and was swamped with small welding projects. Mower decks, Trailer fenders, Tractor implements and a ton of bent stuff. I couldn't keep up and really didn't have the time in the 1st place. Post a sign and they will come !

We used to use the T-92's on argon tanks to hook up 2 separate regulators for Plasma Welding. Back in the day.

Seems fair.

Any Gas in the bottles? The 350MP is a great welder. On E-Bay for 3K. Back then it was a 3K welder Add Spoolgun for $600, 625 is worth about $800 tops. Tanks and gas a expensive too. Wire and consumables are just a bonus. Not a Steal but condition makes a big difference too. New now @ 5K.

You have quite a project here. As far a tig goes, It might be a horse a piece on time and grinding. Tig will take a lot longer and will still have material to grind off.

The "T" you will want is part # T-92 might be able to find a used one. I have a couple of Victor dual flowmeters. Seem to work well.

As stated above, I did this with an old boat and used a body shop dolly on one side, Squeezed silicone on the other and hit it with a hammer. Actually worked as intended. Another option is the wonder rod you see at fairs. Heat with a little propane and it flows in to stop the leak. I can send...

I use some 035 and 045 stainless tig rod when hooking something real thin to something a little thicker and S6 wirefeed wire works ok if you need to do some thin steel. I used to tig weld soda cans together at shows with 4043 1/16. You had to melt a piece of rod off onto the can and then wet it...

Yep. He's looking to do some 20 ga. A lot to learn there.

Make sure you are plugging the tig torch in the negative port. Then make sure the tungsten is not too large to weld thin material. I would say 1/16 tungsten for 1/16th material as a starting point. I also like 040 tungsten for thinner than that.

Very common problem for sure. lol..

I was never a Diversion fan. Non adjustable for the important things. No Pulse, Can't remove the torch, Only 180 amps. Seemed like a Diversion from a real tig machine. I think It was only $1600 new 8 years ago.

I am Shocked at the cost for a 2# spool of flux core. WTH?

If you have a welder with PFC or Power Factor Correction you can run pretty good on extension cords and Generators with no real breaker issues ( 115v ). Ground faults are a different story. Most lower cost units don't offer PFC but are pretty capable on a 20a circuit. The gassless wire comes in...

If you are handy you can certainly operate on the lenses that have no external batteries. I understand that you need a very low temp solder to re-solder in new batteries. Don't want the Lithium to pop.

You're not running the Plas on 230v?

Enjoy the Pulsed Mig. It's a great feature. Just wait til you move up to the next level where you can adjust pulses per second and control the heat and duration of each pulse with Twin Pulse which easily replaces short arc.

You have the latest technology in plasma. OEM torch instead of a power supply with an old style sourced torch from Italy or China. Only TD and HYP have OEM torches and consumables and both are worthy of support.

Na not the virus. I don't know any LWS that pumps 90/10 into 150's. I'm SHOCKED at the price for the tank and gas. WTH?. I need to count my blessings. Ooof Dah.

Fun project ! Nice pics..

I have 3 welders and a plasma on the same cart. A little smaller foot print than what I used to have.

Nice work. I've also seen where guys had removed the ribs and put in a 3" high floor with a reinforcement once the floor was in.

Cool stuff. Did you have to use 4130 or did you use 80SD-2 ? Nice project.

Are you using 71-TGS or 71T-11 ?

Harbor Freight is now pretty serious about their welders. Titanium and Vulcan are both well thought of out there.

There is an SL40 it's 40 amp max. Has VTS technology. (Vent to shield) only uses 2.5 CFM air. There is an SL60 which is 80 amp max. Uses 7.5 CFM air and there is an SL100 that's 120 amps max. the 60 and 100 use the same parts except the tip. The SL40 has similar looking and functioning parts but...

Another thing to consider. With the Cutmaster units there is a torch called the SL42. It has a technology called Vent to Shield. It uses only like 2.5 CFM of air compared to Industry standard 7.5 CFM. This allows the use of a small pancake compressor to run it. This was designed to combat the...

New process, CNC Grinding :unsure:

Carbide burr stuff?

No Argon. Or Nitrogen. Just get a tank of compressed air. It's clean and dry and works better than any compressor. 346 or 590 CGA adaptor needed with your PSI Regulator.

You'll get it. As Gary said above, It's time for additional material. Fix it again and then reinforce with another plate or two. Good Luck.

Several built in compressor brands I have used pumped a fair amount of mist into the plasma stream and that hydrogen is hard on consumables. You just have to be ok with using 2 -3x more tips and electrodes. They are pretty heavy to haul around too.

18ga material will be difficult to manage with a regular pulsed mig set up. I'm wondering why pulse it? Even with the smallest wire you will have a heat problem about 1" into the weld and single pulse won't help that. As long as you already have 75/25 I'd just go with 023 wire and short arc it...

Lets not compare 115v Flux cored welding to 230v stick welding. No comparison. Fact is, All of your tractor buckets and implements are welded with Mig, 71T-1 or larger diameter solid wire.. We can't just say stick is for the heavy stuff when stick is not used for any heavy welding in manufacturing.

Feel Sorry for the guy RIP but he should have checked in here 1st. KaBoom !

I have an old 20# propane tank that I converted into portable air tank. After 30 years of use it still has the rotten egg smell. Not sure it it ever goes away. I had to sand blast the 100# tank I cut open.

Hypertherm also has one . So does Thermal Dynamics, Dragon Plus which cuts 1/2"

It won't be an issue. I cut one open to boil animal skulls last year. Take out opened valve, Dawn soap and water. Dump it out and drain and flush out well and go after it with the Plasma Cutter, Torch or Cutoff's. All above suggestions will work. Good Luck. " KaBoom" !! just kidding..

200 amp welder with 035 is pretty capable. Curious why you opt for the Stick 99.9% of the time.

Cored wire isn't easy to make either. It's not all that rare to get to a place in your spool that has little to no core for an inch or even a foot. You may think it's you but not always.

Most quality cored wire is baked as the final step. The core will take in moisture over time. If you have a rod oven as stated above you are in for clear sailing. Otherwise there is a shelf life and the wire will tell you when it has gone bad. I don't keep a lot of cored wire around but the...

Looks pretty good. Don't forget to address the reason the crack showed up though. I've done something similar and ended up welding 1/8" flat pieces over the top of the repair. Good Luck !

I truly believe that Lincoln writes better software for Pulsed Mig than ITW ( Miller ) but you can't deny the price of the 255 for standard pulsed mig. Both companies are Entry Level as far as Pulse goes and have done a pretty good job keeping the real Pulse / Twin Pulse manufacturers out. When...

Well, Nowhere did I say Every Lincoln welder has Italian parts so are we talking about 20 year old machines or New ones like the OP is after? To be clear, I once sold 35 Power Wave 450's to a manufacturer and 110 350MP's to another. Both were made in USA.Those were the good old days. So what...

last I looked ( because I really don't care ) the Miller 141 through Bobcat was assembled in USA. Certainly more by now and Assembled in USA includes Smith Gas apparatus. They have removed their USA flag from all of their equipment as far as I have noticed.

i'm with you on the latest anti China mentality. all anyone has to do is go to their Local welding Supply and ask to see the boxes that the welders actually come in. You will see for your self. Pretty clear on the labels. Lincoln has the most distribution and plants to choose from but they are...

Not much I don't know about Lincoln. I used to work there. I've been to all of the USA facilities and worked for JW Harris before they were acquired by Lincoln. They list their manufacturing plants in the USA but source their equipment from Italy, Mexico and their China plants ( Plural on the...

Pretty good item. I've used mine for Logging, Brush Hog, Back Blade, Chisel Plow and Disc. No probs.

I did the same with mine.

Not sure "How Honest" Miller was with you. Fact is Miller is only "assembled" in the USA. No-one manufactures a welder in America. All are imports and China has good and bad manufacturers. You could still be on the right track though. Get the best that the budget allows. You will Love the Pulsed...

Congrats to all the deserving winners ! Great to see a contest like this.

I really like the old stick welders. I remember selling Miller Dial Arcs, Blue Stars, Legends, Old Lincoln Welder Generators that looked like mini submarines and R2D2's. Total Old School welding.

On the thicker materials it never hurts to hit it with a little propane or Oxy Acet to warm it up prior to welding. Because it starts cold and ends hot you can try starting in the middle and work outward. Helps sometimes.

Don't laugh now. I've been known to use my log splitter as a brake and a tire bead breaker.

If it's a 115v welder ( on a piece of scrap ) turn voltage and wire all the way up. Back off the wire as you go until you get a nice hot weld.

I just tested some 10yr old 6022 electrodes. Granted they were vac sealed, They ran perfectly. Low hydrogen rods will cause the most trouble when they get old but some of the others actually like a little humidity. as long as the flux is doing it's job, run them. Cored wire will tell you right...

On E-bay there are about 50 welders in this price range. Every company in China must make them.

Well, There's not too many secrets out there so for 130.00 and a 4 yr warranty to should be in good shape. I see the imports on E-bay sometimes for 89.00. The cables, stinger, ground, 115v adapter and dinse plugs cost half of what they want. You could even do scratch start Tig with it too. But...

I built the same. Always on my tractor.

I wonder if it uses IGBT's or Mosfets. ? if it's Mosfets I'd pass. It will likely last a year.

25 miles from the nearest stop light. Several small towns but no stop lights. 40 acres hooked up to 1240 acres of stare forest. closest neighbor is 1.6 miles away. Been here 14 years and came from big city cul de sac. Can't stand the city.

I like a tall table. Looks great !

You'll need to call ESAB. That will be bad enough. The ESAB site on Welding Web has never had anyone from ESAB on it as far as I have ever seen. Tough Luck for you but hopefully it's something simple that even ESAB could help with.

I think the Vulcan uses a Tweco style back end on their liners. Hobart uses the Miller style back end. They are noticeably different. Unless HF sells Miller style liners too. Not sure on that.

Interesting. Have you shot this type of target before? Just curious about it. I shoot up a lot of targets and this might be a better way. Field points I'd guess.. Not sure I'd want to tune with broad heads on this or do you?

I love it when you post pics so I can snoop around your shop !! :)

I have tin walls and roof but routinely fight shop rag and garbage can fires. I should be more careful but for some dumb reason I'm not.

Great Projects !

Sounds like you are too far away from the puddle. What are you using for Tungsten stick-out? Also what tungsten do you use?

Welcome. You are in good hands.(y)

Hopefully you're using a contact tip? Wire really can't come in contact with the Nozzle. Maybe try not touching the nozzle to your work. If it gets filled with slag it can become conductive. Clean it out...3-4 reasons for burnbacks though.

I've never seen 025 flux core but 023/025 solid wire with gas will get you as close as you can get on 22ga.

Normally you would need 045 or larger wire to run a 25' gun with a 4 wheel drive feed system. You would likely struggle with 035 with a 2 wheel system. In my world, 15' gets it done with length to spare. The 260 is my favorite in that welder class.

I have 2 Evolution saws that I horse traded for. A slide mitre and a 14'. Both seem ok. I mostly use them in a pinch when I don't feel like running the band saw.

You'll have your best luck with E71T-11 for gasless. the TGS is crap and none of it is created equal.

Rod depends on what the application is. What ever you do, don't weld over brake-kleen. some of it is poisonous.

Can you flip the sprocket over? or is it part of the clutch hub? Stick on a chainsaw hub would be a bull in a china closet but I guess it could be done.

They don't like me wearing my welding mask at the store. :rolleyes:

No wait. I was going to donate mine if I win..

Yep, Sign me up for my free welder.

Send me your address and I'll send you some cast iron repair stuff to mess with.

Best if you are certain what the material is. Does it say cast steel in a manual or something? I'm guessing it's cast iron?

There are many great cast repair products. Starting with standard low fuming bronze ( brazing rod ) Then you can up it to Nickel Silver which is very good and an actual powdered, stamped cast iron rod with cast iron flux. This gives nearly perfect color match. Another thing to be aware of is...

I'm going to have to try this air technique. Never heard of such a thing but seems doable. I worry about a burn back into the mixer but I'll start with way high pressure and work back til I get a good flame.

Surprised that you had to modify the feed tension spring. Or maybe it was not the original. It was an .023 feed roll you installed right? You'll get the most out of any 115v welder with 030. 1/4" tubing will be tough with that machine and not do-able with 023.

They look a little too bright blue to be 80T AC's. I've been through MG training and don't remember anything with the yellow. Seems like I've seen something like this from Nassau Rockmount in the old days.

Something for sailboat sails to run em up? Trapping? Not sure how much pull the cable connectors would take. :unsure:

. Do you just heat the rod and dip in the flux or are you spreading on?

I'm surprised you could do that good of a job with a torch and tig rod. Using an aluminum stick electrode with the flux on it is much easier. If your in the states I'd send you some to mess with.

Nice work.. What did you use for filler metal?

Short term, the best resources and rigs to start would be to try out someone elses and see if it's something you want to invest in. If that's not an option you can go to a local welding supply store that has a demo room. They will let you spark up the place all you want. If not, go to one that will.

Very Nice !!!

There are a few descent aluminum solder and brazing products out there. One of the ones to try is plain old aluminum stick rod used as a brazing rod. Pre-heat to about 500 degrees. I smoke the weld area with acetylene smoke and then turn on the O2 and start to heat. When the black smoke goes...

Instead of plugging into the wall I have a 10' cord that stays plugged in all the time and I plug into it. It lays on one of the carts so it's easy to use but I'm Continuously plugging and unplugging cords. I have 2= 230v outlets surrounded by cords. I'll be adding this simplification soon.

I need to install the junction box idea. I have a Tig unit a Mig and a plasma all on the same cart and another Mig and plasma on another.. Cords everywhere.

I always have a small Mig loaded with 023 for the lighter jobs. PITA to unload my big Mig and swap everything out for a few short welds and then swap everything back.I just scored some 1/8" flat stock with a cutoff and bent to 45 degrees. Laid some nice surgical beads in the scores and all is...

The Handler has proven durable. Another solid machine was the Lincoln SP100,120,130 before the style change. They take a beating as well.

Never have seen. How did the Rectifiers connect to the AC Machine?

You can't add DC to your AC machine. One of the benefits of DC is better ability to weld out of position like vertical up. You can pick up a DC stick inverter on Ebay for $90. I'm not suggesting anyone should buy a $90 welder but it's just where the prices start. Good Luck !

Judging by the torch knobs that is a Purox 202 or 275? Obsolete but a good torch. I'd keep it.

If it won't lift start without the foot control hooked up ( I think it will ) you can switch to stick and scratch start there.

I mess with gas welding, brazing, soldering. Started with the torch doing body work.