Building up thinned automotive sheet metal

[PILOON]

I'd think that 'clicko' method would work out best if the receiving panel had a joggled edge thus needing less filler.
Never tried it myself (rarely do body work) but should be a good procedure.
Same for an English wheel, love to have one, but just to play?

I did once own a metal 'shrinker/stretcher' and made nice fancy brass oval shaped (and curved) door trim on an amphibious aircraft doorway for a client.
He wanted a nautical look! (like port holes etc)
Brass shapes really well.
Started off with 2 x 2 brass angle, stretched, shrunk until I got it 'just right'. Very pleased.

 

[AnotherBueller]

I’ve used those while over laying panels, it makes it very easy to place a panel right where you need it. If it’s in an area like over the wheel house or alone the rocker panels or aprons, I like to take them out a couple at a time, use a cutoff wheel, and cut thru both panels, then weld ( slow stitch welding) them together so both front and back can be ground and finished off. By doing the butt weld instead of an overlap, it keeps the panels flat, without the overlap, which always seems to hold moisture and road crud, which starts the rust issues all over again.

The Clicko’s are a great way to align the body lines to start the work though.

Back in the day we called them CLECOS fasteners when I was an aircraft mechanic.

 

[ranchhand805]

Always wondered about those fasteners so looked this up: They are “Clecos” or “Clekos”

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cleco_(fastener)

 

[FIXIT]

I found silicone bronze wire is lower heat and is easier to grind flat. And yes tack tack tack. My welder has a tack setting that works great. Practice makes perfect.

 

[MrCreosote]

20 ga sounds light. Studebakers in the 60's used 18 ga which is .048 inches. Metal fabrication shops can sell you that - cheap if they have drops.

If I have a quick rough repair with laps, I use new metal that is thicker. When the water gets into the lap, the thinner original metal will rust away, but the thicker will remain resulting in a "rust butt joint" which is still intact.

When done spray with Fluid Film which will creep into the lap and then that CRC Marine Rust Coating which is resistant to spray. There are amber rust coatings w/lanolin that are like grease that are the way to go for "undercoating." Transstar makes an amber rust proofing spray, but it will not build up. Chevron Marine made their RustProofing Compound L which was like the old Kendkote 60 which was widely specified in industrial circles. Chevron quit selling L in the USA (lbut continued in Europe.) Michigan Petroleum Technologies makes a formulation that is the same - they had fleet customers that they took care of. I purchased some of the MPT stuff about 10 years ago - I believe it is still available. Also, Fluid Film makes a gallon that appears to be thicker stuff than what is in the can - but I can't say for sure since I've never used it.

Keep in mind that these lanolin waxy rust proofings are the best for preventing rust (especially since they are self healing if scratched) but they are flammable and if you plan to do any welding after you use it everywhere, you have a problem - especially if you did a good cavity wax job. Would also not be good if you were in a bad car crash and there was fire - it wouldn't be explosive, but it would be burning oil.

 

[houdel]

I restore old cars and trucks for fun and one of the problems I run into is dealing with body steel that is thinned out by corrosion.

For popular vehicles I can find replacement metal. But from not-so-popular vehicles such as a Rambler or an International Harvester Carry All, the sheet metal is hard to find.

So, I have been wondering if one could use metal spraying to thicken the metal and to cover up pinholes.

I have run across mentions of zinc-sprayers. But I don't know how well this works. Also I'm looking at other possibilities.

El Sordo.

If you go with a sheet metal replacement panel Eastwood sells a nice panel grip for butt welding. If you don't want to go the replacement panel route you can acid etch the rust out and go with a fiberglass cloth or mat and resin overlay.

Eastwood Intergrip Panel Clamp Set - 4pc

Easily and Accurately Align and Hold Panels for a Precise Butt Weld

www.eastwood.com