Anvil’s

Uncle Levi

Member
Messages
8
Good Post Points
7
Location
Dassel, Minnesota
Welder
Hobart Stickmate and a Hobart flux core wirefeed
I have an anvil got years ago at an auction, but I don't ever use the horn. Just don't need it. I use bending jigs (I made) instead. Point is: A piece of I beam or a RR track mounted upside down work just as well. I have a RR track upside down on the other side of the shop. If you want a hardy hole, just weld a piece of square tube to one end and make your hardy to fit in that. Just a thought. Centaur Forge also has a free catalog that's interesting to spend some time with. I guess all this depends if you really need a horn. but you all are right--Anvils are very expensive now days.
 

Harp 031

Member
Messages
9
Good Post Points
1
Location
BC Canada
Welder
3 millers, 5 Lincoln, liquid air, victor,. stick, tig ,wire.
If you are looking for anvils cast iron is at the bottom of the desirability pile as no rebound and just a slug to work with. Cast steel comes in a variety of qualities from very good heat treated to chineesium junk.
An easy way to test rebound is with a ball bearing aprox 1in or a small hammer and drop the ball on the face
and hopefully it rebounds almost up to the point where you dropped it approx 12 in is a good start.
Rebound helps you work longer as it returns some energy back to the hammer.
Forged anvils are available and usually have the better track record the old style manufacturing anvils were forge welded together and sometimes you can see the holes in the body like in my Peter Wright that were used as holes to handle the steel/iron parts for welding. Welding up a anvil is doable just requires planning and preheat and the correct rod [I used railtec a semi hard rod for the edges that needed help] and post heat treatment or just a nice cozy blanket/ insulation for a slow cool down.
 
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