Welding Trailer

[Viny]

So, I've got this old truck bed trailer which I've had for many years. I believe it was a ford, but don't exactly remember as the bed was in bad shape and I tore it off and scrapped it years ago. I've decided to make it into a welding trailer to consolidate my equipment and make it portable when I need to work on something outside the barn. It would definitely live over 90% of its life in the barn. Since it's only the frame, axles, etc, I am letting my imagination run pretty wild with what I want to do with it. For starters, I'm thinking of just building a large flatbed to mount everything to. The current dimensions I'm toying with is about 10' long x 80" wide. This width would cover the wheels and negate the need to construct new wheel wells. Some other design thoughts are as follows:

- Leave a fairly large area on the back free for use as a welding table. The height seems very good but will change as the design proceeds.
- Build legs on large casters at the 4 corners to make it a table. The trailer wheels to be off the ground in this configuration.
- Transform the tongue to make it removable so it would truly be a table

This is an incomplete list but should provide an idea of my thinking. A list of things to be mounted on the trailer is (currently):
- Bobcat 225
- Oxy acetylene setup
- Air compressor
- Tool Boxes, I anticipate 3-4

One thing I started doing years ago was I converted many of my vices, etc to a mounting system of using standard 2" receiver sized square pipe for mounting. I will incorporate that system in this trailer to be able to just move those pieces of equipment right over for when I need them.

The first area of investigation I'm embarking on is the suspension. As I intend to eliminate the original wheel well space, I need to see if I can restrict the travel of the suspension so the wheels won't hit the bottom of the flat bed. Also, conversely, I might need to pinch the suspension while the trailer is in the table mode to not have the wheels dragging the ground and interfering with the casters. If anyone has any ideas about the suspension or any other suggestions, please fire away. Some might argue that I may be going way too far with what is necessary, but, a) welcome to my world ;-) and b) part of this is to further hone my build skills. I've attached a couple of pictures. One is of the trailer as it currently stands and the other is a first cut at laying out the equipment on the proposed bed with the two wooden blocks indicating where the back corners would be.

 

[A-one]

I think the direction you're headed in is a good start. I would probably use the front for a table if the tongue was going to be removable. That would put all of the equipment at the back over the axle and help with tongue weight when it did need to be moved. I'm sure you'll get answers from others more experienced than me. I'm just getting into this as a hobby and can't wait to see what others have to say.

 

[California]

You might replace all that suspension with a Dexter torsion-spring axle, to get less spring travel and functional brakes. Also maybe use smaller trailer tires, to get the deck height down and make the toolboxes more accessible. I replaced the Dexter axle under a 2,000 lb tent trailer once. It didn't cost much.

 

[Viny]

I think the direction you're headed in is a good start. I would probably use the front for a table if the tongue was going to be removable. That would put all of the equipment at the back over the axle and help with tongue weight when it did need to be moved. I'm sure you'll get answers from others more experienced than me. I'm just getting into this as a hobby and can't wait to see what others have to say.

My current thought (and hope) is that as the bobcat is so heavy (around 500 lbs) I could position it far enough back before mounting that it could help with tongue weight without encroaching to much on the work space. Your idea is one I'll keep in mind if that won't work. Thanks

 

[Viny]

You might replace all that suspension with a Dexter torsion-spring axle, to get less spring travel and functional brakes. Also maybe use smaller trailer tires, to get the deck height down and make the toolboxes more accessible. I replaced the Dexter axle under a 2,000 lb tent trailer once. It didn't cost much.

I will definitely look into that. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Gary Fowler]

I wouldnt worry about getting the wheels off the ground. The perfect height for a work table is 30". How you get to that height is up to you. See if you can work your tool boxes while setting that high. I would just put corner jacks on the 2 back corners and use the tongue jack to level the trailer. A 3 point stance should be plenty stable for a work table when all the other stuff is mounted. You could even lift the wheels off the ground by using 3 trailer jacks if you wanted. Putting a large wheeled tongue jack on the front should make it easy to move around by hand.
I would make the entire deck out of wood on the trailer and then scab on a 3/16" thick steel portion on the rear for the work table (sized per your needs for the depth but the entire width of the trailer). On the work table, mount your vise and maybe one of the smaller tool boxes that contain your welding tools. I would mount the welding machine forward from the axles just a bit so it gives you some tongue weigh, you sure dont want the tongue to be too light for safe trailering.

 

[Viny]

I wouldnt worry about getting the wheels off the ground. The perfect height for a work table is 30". How you get to that height is up to you. See if you can work your tool boxes while setting that high. I would just put corner jacks on the 2 back corners and use the tongue jack to level the trailer. A 3 point stance should be plenty stable for a work table when all the other stuff is mounted. You could even lift the wheels off the ground by using 3 trailer jacks if you wanted. Putting a large wheeled tongue jack on the front should make it easy to move around by hand.
I would make the entire deck out of wood on the trailer and then scab on a 3/16" thick steel portion on the rear for the work table (sized per your needs for the depth but the entire width of the trailer). On the work table, mount your vise and maybe one of the smaller tool boxes that contain your welding tools. I would mount the welding machine forward from the axles just a bit so it gives you some tongue weigh, you sure dont want the tongue to be too light for safe trailering.

Gary, thanks for the reply. This project is a combination of thought exercise, organization of my barn, utilization of stuff I've pack-ratted and utility. The truth of the matter is that as this will spend most of its time in the barn, I want to make the table config as useful as possible. I do like your idea about work table height, decking, etc. As I already have the 4 large casters (you can see one of them sitting on the trailer in the pic) I will probably proceed with the 4 corner leg approach. This will include having the tongue and A frame removable. The biggest problem I currently see is trying to resolve the existing frame height vs the existing suspension. I am looking at options to a) restrict the suspension travel via Sumo Springs or something similar, b) smaller wheels/tires, c) replacing the existing suspension/axle with something like the torsion axle or Timbren axle less solution. Or a combination of the 3 while trying to resolve the work surface vs tool box height issue. This is definitely going to be over-engineered (absolutely over-thought) but that should help with my build skills. Keep those cards and letters coming...!

 

[California]

I wonder if starting with a stripped small travel trailer chassis might be simpler.

That would have license plates, if that's a requirement where you are. Re-registering your truck as a trailer might be complex. Here, it would need to be taken to DMV for safety inspection and verification of VIN, as a condition of issuing plates.

Off-topic - I bought HF's tiny $149, 40x48" trailer, 990 lbs GVW, for a 'Jeep trailer' for camping. I carried in to DMV just the 15 lb tongue that had the ID plate, to get it registered. Nope. Had to return with it assembled for inspection.

 

[Viny]

I wonder if starting with a stripped small travel trailer chassis might be simpler.

That would have license plates, if that's a requirement where you are. Re-registering your truck as a trailer might be complex. Here, it would need to be taken to DMV for safety inspection and verification of VIN, as a condition of issuing plates.

Off-topic - I bought HF's tiny $149, 40x48" trailer, 990 lbs GVW, for a 'Jeep trailer' for camping. I carried in to DMV just the 15 lb tongue that had the ID plate, to get it registered. Nope. Had to return with it assembled for inspection.

Now at the risk of sounding odd, I'm not really looking for simpler. One of the main themes of this project is the repurposing of stuff I already have. I've been researching the age of this frame on a Ford forum and it appears to be from the mid to late 60s. There aren't any requirements for registering it, licensing it, etc here. Shoot, it doesn't even need lights if I don't tow it at night. (I am planning to put lights on it).

After some further research into I may remove the existing axles/springs and replace it with an existing drop axle I have (I already admitted to being a pack-rat) and mounting it to the frame via a Timbren Silent Ride setup. That with smaller tires would lower the frame dramatically, While I would no longer be able to have a continuous large flat bed, (due to the wheel wells) it would have the benefit of placing the tool boxes at a much better height, and I can build an elevated work area at the rear. This is my current thinking. We'll see...

 

[CA_Bgrwldr]

Not sure I follow your plans, are you wanting to use the 8x10 trailer deck as a table on casters that you can move around the shop space, then be able to load tool boxes, welder/generator, comp, etc., to use as a portable welding/work station? It seems to me, due to the frame, decking, axle, needed for use as a trailer, it would be a bit heavy to be moving around the shop as table.

As far as a mobile welder/metal work station trailer, that should be relatively easy to do using the space from the tires forward to hold the welder, comp, acetylene, a tool box or two, etc, and the from the wheels back your work table, with likely the room underneath it used for more tool box space or drawers/cabinet space. The table would serve as both a table and fenders, up travel of the suspension likely would be an issue then, though if it were, you could use bump stops to prevent the tires from rubbing, and Daystar makes a set of adjustable bump stops that also act like a shock absorber to reduce the impact of the axle hitting the bump stops, think they are called Stinger.

If you don't want to spend the money on a drop axle, you could convert the current axle to spring under, which should drop the frame about 6", lower with smaller smaller tires, and if there is issue with the frame, you could just notch or arch the section of the frame for clearance, like is done for lowriders.

 

[Viny]

Not sure I follow your plans, are you wanting to use the 8x10 trailer deck as a table on casters that you can move around the shop space, then be able to load tool boxes, welder/generator, comp, etc., to use as a portable welding/work station? It seems to me, due to the frame, decking, axle, needed for use as a trailer, it would be a bit heavy to be moving around the shop as table.

As far as a mobile welder/metal work station trailer, that should be relatively easy to do using the space from the tires forward to hold the welder, comp, acetylene, a tool box or two, etc, and the from the wheels back your work table, with likely the room underneath it used for more tool box space or drawers/cabinet space. The table would serve as both a table and fenders, up travel of the suspension likely would be an issue then, though if it were, you could use bump stops to prevent the tires from rubbing, and Daystar makes a set of adjustable bump stops that also act like a shock absorber to reduce the impact of the axle hitting the bump stops, think they are called Stinger.

If you don't want to spend the money on a drop axle, you could convert the current axle to spring under, which should drop the frame about 6", lower with smaller smaller tires, and if there is issue with the frame, you could just notch or arch the section of the frame for clearance, like is done for lowriders.

My description of the plans is confusing? LOL I have a set of goals in my mind, you are reading some of them in conjunction with the ever changing plans. So, yes I want to attempt a trailer that converts to a table. Or, you can look at it the other way around. So, I'm gonna try again. I have the trailer, the welder, the tool boxes, etc and I want to organize my barn shop and end up with something that will spend most of its time in the barn, but able to travel when necessary.

The original thought was to leave the frame at the existing height, as it is close to work table height. I could conceive a large rectangular work table that everything would ride on top of. However, some of the downsides of that initial design thought are: the tool boxes would be inconveniently high up, the suspension would need stops like you indicated, a lot of wasted space underneath, etc, to name a few.

As an alternative, while researching torsion axles, etc to drop the frame, I ran across Timbren's silent ride solution (I believe they are MDed, but haven't verified) Using a set of these with a drop axle I already have, I could lower the frame a lot and depending on where that ends up, solve the fender issue and build up a work table from there.

This is the path I'm on now as I just ordered the Timbren parts. Once installed, I will post a new pic and see how everything is going to want to layout from there. I've also started putting videos of this on Youtube if you (or anyone) is interested.

 

[A-one]

I've also started putting videos of this on Youtube if you (or anyone) is interested.

Post a link. ?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️ I'm interested!!!

 

[CA_Bgrwldr]

OK, a little more clear.

What is the maximum table height? If you start with the frame being on the ground, or just an inch or two off of it when being used as a table, would you have enough clearance for tool boxes under the table, with the taller items like the bobcat located at either end, or in the center with tables on each side? If this would work, you could use air bags to raise the trailer to tow height.

If the frame on the ground and tool boxes under the table approach wont work, another option would be to have the table on one side and the tool boxes and what not on the other, maybe even have two separate tables, one low for working on taller items or when sitting, and the other taller for use while standing.

 

[JWeir]

I have an old flatbed on my land. Truck is tired, but the work height is pretty nice. I would try to get the balance close if possible for tongue weight. Too much weight aft and it would do wheelies and too much forward and you will struggle to hitch it up. Probably mount bobcat and compressor somewhere near the axel. As for the space under the frame, a couple hanging truck tool boxes would be good for holding clamps, chains, etc. I would try to make a table on the rear because the tongue wouldn't get in the way when working. Maybe a couple upright poles with welded hooks to hang leads, hoses, and cords from. Just being able to work just outside of the barn and be able to quickly push it inside when weather changes or at the end of the day would be awesome. Keep posting progress.

 

[Viny]

I've also started putting videos of this on Youtube if you (or anyone) is interested.

Post a link. ?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️ I'm interested!!!

 

[Viny]

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnNlk1siUP_wlpbbh5qEQ_A

Now, I'm new at this, so the videos won't be the polished, wonderful works you've no doubt gotten used to watching others. But, hopefully that will improve with time. Let me know if this doesn't work. Thanks

 

[Viny]

OK, a little more clear.

What is the maximum table height? If you start with the frame being on the ground, or just an inch or two off of it when being used as a table, would you have enough clearance for tool boxes under the table, with the taller items like the bobcat located at either end, or in the center with tables on each side? If this would work, you could use air bags to raise the trailer to tow height.

If the frame on the ground and tool boxes under the table approach wont work, another option would be to have the table on one side and the tool boxes and what not on the other, maybe even have two separate tables, one low for working on taller items or when sitting, and the other taller for use while standing.

Currently, (emphasis intended) I intend to set this up for primary use/time/lifespan as a table, in which the frame will end up on these ginormous casters I have. I plan for one at each corner, minus the A-frame. To set the frame height, I will mount up the new Timbren/drop axle setup and ensure the tires are an inch or so off the concrete, for table mode. Once that frame height is set, I'll figure out what the casters will want to do to maintain that height. From there, I'll embark on shoring up my placement ideas, which (again) currently have the bobcat riding somewhere over the axle to end up at proper tongue weight when in trailer mode, the tool boxes, air compressor, etc., forward and the work table in the rear. It's height will drop out of this process. I've measured the heights of various work benches I have and they all seem to be in the 30" to 34" from the ground range. I hope to have ample room between the work table and the frame to add in some drawers to hold smaller stuff, welding rods, cutoff and grinding wheels, etc.

I want to end up with everything on the frame somewhere and the ability to move the whole kit and caboodle around the shop as a unit. I'm enjoying this kind of project as the goals are fairly fixed, but the process is taking me all over the place.

 

[Viny]

I have an old flatbed on my land. Truck is tired, but the work height is pretty nice. I would try to get the balance close if possible for tongue weight. Too much weight aft and it would do wheelies and too much forward and you will struggle to hitch it up. Probably mount bobcat and compressor somewhere near the axel. As for the space under the frame, a couple hanging truck tool boxes would be good for holding clamps, chains, etc. I would try to make a table on the rear because the tongue wouldn't get in the way when working. Maybe a couple upright poles with welded hooks to hang leads, hoses, and cords from. Just being able to work just outside of the barn and be able to quickly push it inside when weather changes or at the end of the day would be awesome. Keep posting progress.

Total agreement on everything you said. The original height of the pickup bed frame held my focus for some time as the height was, as you say, pretty nice. However, in the end, I believe for this purpose, that height causes more problems than it solves. I'm totally going to trick it out with things to make the work table handy...

 

[A-one]

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnNlk1siUP_wlpbbh5qEQ_A

Now, I'm new at this, so the videos won't be the polished, wonderful works you've no doubt gotten used to watching others. But, hopefully that will improve with time. Let me know if this doesn't work. Thanks

The link works fine. I watch a lot videos. The editing or camera features aren't what I'm looking for though. The content is what I'm after. Wouldn't care if it was recorded with a 3G phone. If I can learn something, the video has my attention.

I say you're on the right track with the trailer though. The main thing that i think you're looking for is usefulness. It has to be built for you to be comfortable with it. Looks like you have good ideas already and getting more here.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Any updates on this trailer/welding table build.