Troubleshooting Popping

[Lefty]

I've posted prior about the same rig but this is a different issue so I thought I'd start a new thread. I have this little setup. The little plastic caddie with the small tanks. I really have no history on the setup as it was given to me. Oxygen is reading over 2000 and acetylene at about 120ish. Right now, I'm just testing and the setup as I am new but have done a lot of research. Before cutting or really doing anything with it, I just want to make sure it's safe. I've leaked tested and everything seems in check.

I cleaned the tip and took it to my local shop for inspection to get their blessing on the tip. The torch has built-in check and arrestors. With the cutting attachment and a 0 tip, I'm getting popping. Around every 5-10 seconds after introducing oxygen. I can get it to run smooth with a welding attachment but not with the cutting attachment. So I think I've isolated the problem to the cutting attachment as the handle/body seems to work with the welding attachment. I'm not sure what to go at next or if there's a troubleshooting protocol for this type of situation. I'm starting with 5psi working on the acetylene and 10-20 psi on the oxygen to start. The popping is not blowing out the flame and is not particularly violent but is enough to cause me concern as I don't believe I should have any popping. But I'm not sure since I'm new. What would be my next move?

Thank you.

 

[A-one]

Is it popping while your cutting or just whenever it is lit?

 

[Lefty]

Is it popping while your cutting or just whenever it is lit?

I haven't actually tried to cut with it yet. But it does pop when the cutting lever is depressed. No more or less than during a neutral flame. Kind of random every 5-10 seconds or so. It basically pops during any type of flame that includes any amount of oxygen. But again, I haven't tried to cut with it yet. I was just trying to get comfortable with it before I did anything.

 

[A-one]

Like I said in another thread, I'm new to all of this myself. A Google search did turn up a couple of possible scenarios. Either something is dirty (tip, cutting attachment, clogged hose), or your pressures aren't correct for the tip that you're using. One possible scenario is the gauges might be a little off.

 

[Gary Fowler]

You need to replace the o-ring seals on the cutting head. That will fix the problem. Your LWS should have them but take your heart medicine first so you dont have a heart attack when they tell you the price of each O-ring.

 

[Lefty]

Excellent. Thank you.

 

[Lefty]

You need to replace the o-ring seals on the cutting head. That will fix the problem. Your LWS should have them but take your heart medicine first so you don't have a heart attack when they tell you the price of each O-ring.

My torch says "CA27-V". I contacted Airgas and they told me that they don't sell parts for Victor. Their corporate told me that it is a discontinued torch and they don't sell parts. When I asked if they could provide me with part numbers so I could at least find something on ebay, they stopped responding via email.

So I'm wondering if anyone knows if there is a difference between "CA27" and "CA27-V". I found some repair kits on ebay that say they are for model CA27. Does the "V" signify anything important?

It's not about the money. I'm happy to try. I'm just concerned about safety.

Thank you

 

[Gary Fowler]

Not sure but V in welding equipment usually just signifies Valve. The O rings that you need are pretty generic for Victor torches. Internet should be your friend when looking for these.

 

[Lefty]

Not sure but V in welding equipment usually just signifies Valve. The O rings that you need are pretty generic for Victor torches. Internet should be your friend when looking for these.

I'll check it out then. Thank you.

 

[welding seabee]

Find the problem yet? Those little 10 CF tanks don't provide much flow. They are primarily used for light duty soldering, brazing, and welding. The flow it takes for cutting with the valve depressed is not available. Oxy will deplete real fast when cutting. Those sets are mostly used in the HVAC and Plumbing trades to do quickie jobs in tight places. High flow can suck the acetone absorbent out of the small tanks. You will know when that happens; black smoke and flame out. Goes for both the MC and B size tanks.

Ron

 

[Gary Fowler]

I forgot to mention that another thing that can cause popping is a loose cutting tip. The seats in the cutting head or tip may be slightly scarred. I have corrected the issue using some fine emery cloth on the seat of both items. After sanding, put the tip in tight but not so tight that you cant turn it. Twist the tip round and round to lap the two together. That should cure the issue. I assume that by now you have found the o-rings to change them on the cutting head.
Just a reminder, with proper o-rings, you dont need to tighten more than light hand tight on any attachment. If you overtighten, it will ruin the o-ring.

 

[A-one]

I've learned the hand tightened lesson the hard way. The valve seats on my torch handle need machining. A healthy fear of the acetylene makes me tighten the valve too much. Now I have to crank it good to get the fire to go out.

 

[California]

I've learned the hand tightened lesson the hard way. The valve seats on my torch handle need machining. A healthy fear of the acetylene makes me tighten the valve too much. Now I have to crank it good to get the fire to go out.

Maybe automotive valve lap compound (abrasive paste, coarse then fine) could be used to improve the seal there.

 

[A-one]

I'll just buy a new one. Start over fresh. When you know better, you do better.

 

[sonny580]

I have a lot of popping with my big torch, ( ws acty. tank and biggest oxy tank Lindie made) and if you try to blow a hole it will do that and is normal but annoying and dangerous to say the least. normal cutting if you get ahead of the melted area it will blow too so its mostly a matter of getting used to the torch. Mine is a Victor knockoff from HF so that should x'plain a lot LOL!!!

 

[Yomax4]

I also vote new O-rings and maybe a little extra tightness on the tip nut.

 

[kayco53]

Do what the others have said loosen tip and kind of lap it. Then tighten. Would turn oxygen to about 25psi depending on tip size. Does the tip need cleaning. Sounds like in might be bad seat. You can try another tip. If you get another tip get a real victor tip. The knock off torches and tips can be crap. Never had any luck with the overseas knock offs. Had a new knock off all the holes weren't even drilled. Easiest is to try the tip first. I use a small plumbing type bottle at home and they work fine. If they pop a lot and that doesn't fix it get the torch repaired if its a quality one.

 

[MrCreosote]

Is your torch the CA27-V or the CA270-V? What handle do you have? is it an aircraft style?

I have the J27 aircraft handle, many tips, and the C100 cutting attachment since the 70's. I know if you adjust the pressure for laminar flow (no turbulant "roar"), the torch will pop like crazy when welding anything thicker than autobody sheet metal. If yours has the same o-ring config as mine, those o-rings last a very long time because they do not slide into a cylinder but rather are crushed into a cone so to speak.

Smiths is much better in that regard. Henrob is is phenomenal laminar tech but I never used mine since so used to aircraft handles. Torches that have metal seats (obsolete ones) are very robust and also conduct more heat out of the tip which seems to improve flame stability when welding into a "box corner."

 

[Harp 031]

I have used regular O rings of the right size as no time to order the ones that might fit.
They work just fine and don't break the bank. Popping sounds like a tip or pressure issue
check the tip fit to the cutting attachment if the sealing seats are damaged? bingo repair the seats or get new tip, repairing the tip seats requires a fine cut file and a steady hand to keep the tip round.
Pressure for cutting for a general start point is 7 psi accet and 30 psi Oxy. Some of the blowback protection
check valves only open at about 5 psi so what your gauge says as 5 may be 2 at the torch.

 

[Sandy hill]

I've posted prior about the same rig but this is a different issue so I thought I'd start a new thread. I have this little setup. The little plastic caddie with the small tanks. I really have no history on the setup as it was given to me. Oxygen is reading over 2000 and acetylene at about 120ish. Right now, I'm just testing and the setup as I am new but have done a lot of research. Before cutting or really doing anything with it, I just want to make sure it's safe. I've leaked tested and everything seems in check.

I cleaned the tip and took it to my local shop for inspection to get their blessing on the tip. The torch has built-in check and arrestors. With the cutting attachment and a 0 tip, I'm getting popping. Around every 5-10 seconds after introducing oxygen. I can get it to run smooth with a welding attachment but not with the cutting attachment. So I think I've isolated the problem to the cutting attachment as the handle/body seems to work with the welding attachment. I'm not sure what to go at next or if there's a troubleshooting protocol for this type of situation. I'm starting with 5psi working on the acetylene and 10-20 psi on the oxygen to start. The popping is not blowing out the flame and is not particularly violent but is enough to cause me concern as I don't believe I should have any popping. But I'm not sure since I'm new. What would be my next move?

Thank you.

Not sure what brand you are using, but from my experience it has always been the seal between the tip and body. Seems like the body is misshapen or damaged from a bad tip being forced into place. .y only answer to the problem was to replace the front piece of the torch.