Supplemental 120V MIG Welder - Everlast vs HF Titanium vs Other

Rancher Ed

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Which 120V wire-feed welder would you chose to supplement a larger 240V TIG/Stick machine? The purpose of the welder would be for small projects and repairs, sheet metal work, etc. with the ability to use stick or TIG for thicker materials as required. The ability to add a spool gun for aluminum is definitely attractive. Cost is always a factor, so below are three options I know of:
  1. Harbor Freight Titanium Easy-Flux 125 Amp Welder ($220) The price is great, but it is flux core only and is limited to 125 amps. It has a 30% duty cycle at 90 amps. It does have stepless voltage and wire feed adjustment which I consider a requirement. Open circuit voltage is only 21.6V. Can only use 4in spools (2 lbs) and no spool gun for aluminum.
  2. Harbor Freight Titanium MIG 140 Professional Welder ($400) Bumps max amps up to 140 but is still limited to a 30% duty cycle at 90 amps. Displays actual voltage and wire feed speed instead of just 0-10. Open circuit voltage is 69V. Can use 8in spools (10-12 lbs) with an adapter and comes ready for a spool gun.
  3. Everlast Power I-MIG 140E ($400) Max of 140 amps and has a 60% duty cycle at 90 amps (25% duty cycle at 140 amps). Stepless voltage and wire feed but both are simple 0-10 knobs. Open circuit voltage is 60V. Can also use 8in spools (10-12 lbs) and comes ready for a spool gun.
The fact that the Titanium MIG 140 displays the actual voltage and wire feed speed is nice, but the Power I-MIG 140E has a much better duty cycle. I know the Everlast and believe the Harbor Freight models go on sale occationally, so that could be an influencing factor.

Are there any other budget minded models that should be considered? Which would you choose/recommend, and why?
 

California

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After owning a couple of 110v welders - that rated maximum output amps will likely have a footnote somewhere in the manual saying you need to wire a new circuit to provide more than the standard 15 amps at your wall outlet, to get over ~90 or 100 amps output. As I recall my Century '130' wanted a 30 amp 120v circuit to attain that output. So the models you described likely have comparable output in normal use running from a normal wall outlet. (Possibly all three have the same guts!)

Flux-only 110v is never going to make pretty welds. BTDT. But ultralight weight and portability (no bottle) can be an advantage if you need to go work anywhere that has 110v.
 

CA_Bgrwldr

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Personally, if $500 or less is what you are wanting to spend, I would go with a Hobart Handler 125 $369.99, or if you want to do little more, go with the Hobart Handler 140 $499.99. The problem that I have seen with the HF/cheaper "other" brands from members in the offroad community, is that their specs for gauge and duty cycle are overrated, and just don't last that long, due to the cheaper parts used in the manufacturing process. My Handler 125 is about 16yrs old, and after about 1000hrs of run time, welding mainly 0.125(1/8") tube and diamond plate, it still works just fine, and I wouldn't hesitate buying another one if needed.
 

Yomax4

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The Handler has proven durable. Another solid machine was the Lincoln SP100,120,130 before the style change. They take a beating as well.
 

Rancher Ed

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After owning a couple of 110v welders - that rated maximum output amps will likely have a footnote somewhere in the manual saying you need to wire a new circuit to provide more than the standard 15 amps at your wall outlet, to get over ~90 or 100 amps output. As I recall my Century '130' wanted a 30 amp 120v circuit to attain that output. So the models you described likely have comparable output in normal use running from a normal wall outlet. (Possibly all three have the same guts!)

Flux-only 110v is never going to make pretty welds. BTDT. But ultralight weight and portability (no bottle) can be an advantage if you need to go work anywhere that has 110v.
You make a good point. I would expect 20 amps to be available in most standard shops or garage setups, but to make use of the extra output of a 140 class machine versus a 125 you would need a 30 amp power source.
 

Rancher Ed

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CA_Bgrwldr and Yomax4,

This is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. I had taking a quick look at Lincoln's and Miller's current offerings and was not impressed with the features/capability versus price of their base MIG machines. The Hobart Handler 125, on the other hand, looks like the perfect supplement for someone on a budget who already has a bigger stick welder for heavy work.
  • Hobart Handler 125 MIG Welder (MSRP $330, actual price currently ~$370) Rated at 25% duty cycle at 80 amps. Open circuit voltage is 28V, and it can use either 4" or 8" spools. Really the only downside I see to this welder is it is limited to four voltage settings instead of stepless adjustment. The fact it is a name brand machine and has a proven reputation are definitely marks in its favor.
 

Lis2323

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CA_Bgrwldr and Yomax4,

Really the only downside I see to this welder is it is limited to four voltage settings instead of stepless adjustment. The fact it is a name brand machine and has a proven reputation are definitely marks in its favor.
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Personally I would say don’t even think about that holding you back. I have used welders like that for years. Think of it as keeping it simple and having less adjustments to figure out.

Set it according to the door chart and focus on technique.
 

Rancher Ed

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Personally I would say don’t even think about that holding you back. I have used welders like that for years. Think of it as keeping it simple and having less adjustments to figure out.

Set it according to the door chart and focus on technique.
Thanks Lis2323,
Very helpful input. The only MIG machines I have used were industrial machines running on 480V input power with stand-alone wire feeders (not mine, I just had access to them). The idea with this thread was to get feedback from people like you who have used these smaller machines. I hope to be looking at one in the next year or two, plus this is a topic I'm sure a lot of people wanting to get started with welding would be interested in.
 

CA_Bgrwldr

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Personally I would say don’t even think about that holding you back. I have used welders like that for years. Think of it as keeping it simple and having less adjustments to figure out.

Set it according to the door chart and focus on technique.
X2.
Here is link to the Handler 125's manual, voltage curve for the 4 settings is on page 14, the Weld Parameter Chart is on pages 20-21.
 

bplayer405

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I have a Titanium flux 125 and really like the versatility of it. I've used hobart E71T-11 and Lincoln NR211-MP with it. WAY better wire. Used it to build some tools for my garage (vise press brake, small bender, and portaband table) and recently used it to repair the posts for a 20x20 awning we rebuilt through work. Performed perfectly. Added a 1/8" formed step to the side of a utility trailer for my boss. He's a big guy and the step works great for him.

The portable table was the thickest material I've welded with it. 5/16". Blew the breaker in the house twice, so I upgraded my garage to 60 amp 220v and ran a dedicated breaker in 10 gauge for it. No problems since.

I got mine with the help of a coupon. Even with the 2 yr service plan it was under $200. The portability of it is awesome! I can throw everything i need in one medium sized tote and go. Flux core is great for repairs outdoors. Sure there's more cleanup, but that's nothing compared to hauling around a big machine and tanks of gas. Sure, it has its limitations, but its a nice tool that can make solid repairs. So far, its worked great for me.

I too am looking at a shop setup, but looking at the Hobart 190 with the spool gun. Should be more than I'll ever need. 110v is nice, but limited especially with aluminum. Harbor Freight has some inexpensive and nice offerings, but their warranty is short and an add-on price. That's why I'm looking at Hobart.
 

Yomax4

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I always have a small Mig loaded with 023 for the lighter jobs. PITA to unload my big Mig and swap everything out for a few short welds and then swap everything back.I just scored some 1/8" flat stock with a cutoff and bent to 45 degrees. Laid some nice surgical beads in the scores and all is well.It would have taken 20 minutes to swap guns, Drive rolls and wire to do this with my regular machine for 5 minutes of welding.
 

Lis2323

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I always have a small Mig loaded with 023 for the lighter jobs. PITA to unload my big Mig and swap everything out for a few short welds and then swap everything back.I just scored some 1/8" flat stock with a cutoff and bent to 45 degrees. Laid some nice surgical beads in the scores and all is well.It would have taken 20 minutes to swap guns, Drive rolls and wire to do this with my regular machine for 5 minutes of welding.

That is what I did also. .035 wire machine with .023 loaded in the machine on top. I have a junction box on the cart so that they both share the same input power cord.

IMG_3412.jpg

I’m SO lazy I will oftentimes continue using the .035 for a project even though it is easy to switch. Pathetic, I know.....
 

Yomax4

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I need to install the junction box idea. I have a Tig unit a Mig and a plasma all on the same cart and another Mig and plasma on another.. Cords everywhere.
 

sea2summit

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Every time Home Depot does a sale on the Lincoln 140’s I have a hard time passing them up but I just want it as something quick to plug into the wall for something small. And I have no justification/need for it so 6 would probably make me take it back anyway.
 

CB

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I kind of have a similar set up to @Lis2323 , in that I have a 115v wire feeder loaded with .023, and a 230v wire feeder loaded with .035... just not on the same bottle and cart like Lis2323.

My 115v mig was manufactured in the USA about 35 years ago by TSC Research. I have a Tweco Mini Mig torch (also USA made, from the early 1980's) attached to it, so when I turn to it, the purpose isn't just the small wire, it is for the small, light, and nimble torch. I find that it fries bacon on only one setting with the .023 wire, and I've never tried any other wire in it to compare. I turn to it when I'm worried about burning through thin material, or need to do intricate work where a fat heat tolerant torch won't fit the existing obstructions in the way.

I kind of think it is unnecessary to have it though. I only keep it due to it's rarity and build quality. It's built like a laboratory instrument. And I had it before I upgraded to a 230v mig, which can be dialed down to the same low amp settings, if not lower. Admittedly, the whole point is not to have to change reels, but still, the newer, larger machine can pulse to reduce heat input, whereas the 115v machine cannot. Unless having to weld in locations were 230v is not available, I wouldn't bother acquiring a 115V mig welding machine if I didn't already own one.
 
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Rancher Ed

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Lis2323,
I really like your cart setup with the junction box. I'm definitely taking note of that for my future shop.

CB,
Sounds like you have a nice setup. I completely agree with what you are saying about a good 240V machine. My garage only has 120V power, and running a 240V outlet is pretty involved and somewhat expensive (the electrical panel is on the other side of the house). I plan to eventually run 240V power to the garage and/or have a dedicated shop, but might add a 120V wire feed machine before then.

Everyone has provided a lot of very helpful input, thank you. This has definately helped me with my planning and hopefully is also helpful to anyone else looking at a small MIG machine.
 

Techspec360

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This is awesome! Appreciate the info everyone. Because of this post and some heavy searching of online reviews, I went the route of a Hobart Handler 140 instead of my original path of the Everlas. Cheers to all - happy Friday!
 

GrummpyUnk

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One thought on the Titanium series to consider is that their duty cycle seems to be very under-rated. I've seen some use them for a lot longer than you'd think they would run without a break.
tom
 
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