Need to build something, but what?

[Gary Fowler]

I have a bunch of 2" pipe that I could use to build something, but what can I build that will be useful around the farm.

 

[cpufixerjr]

I built a boom pole and regretted waiting so long to build it since I did.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I dont have any use for that. I use my FEL to lift anything that I need lifted. More suggestions please.

 

[Dirt Guy]

Maybe build a new gate or something, two inch pipe will work well for that.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Maybe build a new gate or something, two inch pipe will work well for that.

Now that is an idea. MY daughter in law actually needs a large gate for her entrance . I just might have enough pipe to make one. It would require a substantial corner post to hold it up. That pipe looks to be about 1/4" thick and in 8 foot sections. When her better half gets here later this week we can work on it. He is a welder by trade also and many years younger so he has a strong back.

 

[flyerdan]

Sched 80 is a bit overkill for a gate, my book says it weights 7.46 pounds per foot.
If I had a few sticks of that I'd make some heavy sawhorses; still heavier than ideal, but the cost would be right.

 

[Oliver 1555]

I made a 20’ flag pole with 2” pipe.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Now that is an idea that I like. I just need to buy some pulleys and rope to attach the flag (and a flag ) and some concrete to anchor it. That will be a good project when I get caught up with my other work.

 

[Bearskinner]

I made a 20’ flag pole with 2” pipe.

I vote for the flag pole. Put a slug in the bottom of the pole, and use a piece of the same pipe in the ground. You can slip a bolt in an oversized hole to keep it intact, but also capable to remove for any reason.

 

[Bearskinner]

If you think you want to make it movable, hinge the bottom, so you can remove a pin ( like a trailer hitch pin) lean the pole to the ground, do what’s needed, stand it back up.

 

[Gary Fowler]

If you think you want to make it movable, hinge the bottom, so you can remove a pin ( like a trailer hitch pin) lean the pole to the ground, do what’s needed, stand it back up.

Great idea on the hinge. Kind of vacillating lbetween the slug so it can be raised by using my FEL. Still contemplating doing a standing pole or just putting a flag pole on to my shop wall. Still thinking about where I could put a standing pole where it will be visible but not to intrusive to mowing, car parking etc. Also cant put it around any power lines which I have crossing between my house and my shop thanks to the electric company short cutting the line to my brother in laws house prior to me building my house and shop.

 

[Bearskinner]

I mounted my flag pole with a couple pipe clamps on a heavy flag stand. It’s a lighter weight aluminum pole, so I can lift it out of the stand if needed.

 

[Oliver 1555]

Here are a couple of pictures to show the flagpole and how I “hinged” it with some 3” channel iron. Sorry about them being sideways - phones do weird stuff

 

[Bearskinner]

That’s a nice sturdy mount. If you were going to take it down often, I would just replace the top bolt with a captured hitch pin , and it would be a bit easier than removing the top bolt to swing the pole down.

 

[Oliver 1555]

I started out with a collapsible pole and that seemed like a good idea, but no provision for half mast. It did not do well with wind and then dealing with frozen parts when trying to take it down made me go this route. I bought the mount for the top of the pole, plus the rope and hardware. Now, I can raise and lower like a real flagpole. The only reason to lay it down would be to replace the rope or light.

 

[bplayer405]

I have a long piece of 1.5" black iron pipe thats been laying around since I moved in to where I live now. Was gonna use it for clothes hanger rod in the basement, still may. But, I did just find a good reason to drag it into the shop to cut a piece. I have a treestand that hit the ground pretty hard and bent one side of the top rail to the seat section. Gonna make a 4' cheater bar with a welded "f" section to fit the rail bends and tweak the rail back into shape. It'll be overkill for the thin wall square tubing of the stand, but a good cheater bar can come in handy later also...

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have a long piece of 1.5" black iron pipe thats been laying around since I moved in to where I live now. Was gonna use it for clothes hanger rod in the basement, still may. But, I did just find a good reason to drag it into the shop to cut a piece. I have a treestand that hit the ground pretty hard and bent one side of the top rail to the seat section. Gonna make a 4' cheater bar with a welded "f" section to fit the rail bends and tweak the rail back into shape. It'll be overkill for the thin wall square tubing of the stand, but a good cheater bar can come in handy later also...View attachment 1297

Looks like you got more than just one bent bar. It looks to have several bent bars and looks like one leg is broken also. It may be easier to cut out the bent bars, straighten them if possible and then weld them back in. Looking again at the photo, some of the bends look factory made but I cant understand why they made so many offset bends. Every bend weakens the tubing and it looks to have a dozen bends.

 

[bplayer405]

Yeah, its thin wall tubing also. The L piece laying on the cardboard has a mating L that did break at a bolt, it holds the backrest. I did weld it back together and redrill its mounting hole. The bends I labeled in the pic allow that tubing to open up for the seat. The seat section has moved close to 1.5" to the right from the back of the footrest as it is. I'll have it ready to put back into use this weekend.

 

[bplayer405]

Made my F cheater bar and it works quite well. It tweaked the left top rail with ease and brought the rear mounting points for the footrest in line again. Should come in pretty handy...

 

[Yomax4]

Could have used this when one of mine went down with the tree.