How to weld 1"x2" bar to each other?

crmorse

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Lotos 5000 SMAW/TIG/Plasma
I recently purchased a SSQL to pin-on adapter for my telehandler[1]. Unfortunately, I misread the model number and it doesn't fit my unit correctly. Even worse, round-trip shipping would cost even more than it's worth. Fortunately, the only thing wrong is the spacing between the pin-on brackets is too wide. I've successfully cut them off and measured where they should go. However, I've never welded anything this thick before and while it will NOT ever be supporting anything life threatening, I don't want to create a hazard zone either....

The configuration is 1" x 2" flat bar stock running horizontal with the 2" side facing the brackets. The brackets are also 1" wide and mounted perpendicular to the cross bars so that the 1" wide face is against the 2" face. I have a 200A stick welder and a selection of 3/32" and 1/8" rods mostly of the 6013 and 7018 variety plus a few others. I feel better with the 6013 but I think the results of the 7018 are actually better.

Based on some videos I've watched on the subject I think I should grind in a bevel on the brackets and lay down a root pass with 3/32" 6013, clean it up, and then blend in filler passes with 1/8" 7018 until the weld fillet is about 3/16" thick which would be about 3/8" wide.

Does this sound like the right approach? If so, what angle/size starting bevel should I grind? If it's not right, what do you recommend?

As I stated before, this will not be be used in any overhead position or the rated load (6000 lbs) of the machine. I plan to use it to mount a jib to place 250# wood trusses. All my actions and the responsibility for them are my own. That said, I want to do this right and make sure the welds are good enough that they could hold the 6000 rated load anyway.

If it matters, when grinding out the factory welds I learned that they cut a small slot in the cross bars and matching tab on the brackets (probably to assist with locating the brackets) and had good solid penetration of at least 1/4" in all directions. It was good work.

P.S. I'll also post this to TBN for visibility...
 

Rancher Ed

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crmorse,

You are absolutely on the right track thinking to bevel the brackets and then fill it out as a fillet weld. What you have is a T-joint with the horizontal flat bar stock as the top of the T and the bracket as the leg/upright of the T. I have attached an image showing a beveled T-Joint with full penetration, but I would think putting a partial penetration weld the same way the part came from the factory would be fine. A 45° bevel is typically used for a joint like this and provides a good balance between being able to get to the root to make a good weld and having a huge weld joint to fill.

I would recommend grinding a 1/4" to 3/8" bevel on both sides. Assuming you have one, I would then use a 90° welding magnet to hold the two pieces together and make the root pass on one side of the T. I would then remove the magnet and make the root pass on the other side of the T, and both sides of the T for the second horizontal flat bar. Once you have made all four root passes for that bracket, you can chip off the slag and use a grinder as needed to make sure there is no slag at the toes of the weld. I would then repeat the process of making each fill pass for all four welds before moving on to the next fill pass. This will help keep the bracket square to the horizontal flat bar instead of it pulling toward whichever weld you complete first. Once you complete the four welds for the first bracket you can repeat the entire process for the second bracket.

For this application either should work but your plan of the 6013 root followed by 7018 fill sounds good. Unless you regularly weld on material this thick I would recommend running a few more amps than usual due to the material thickness. Also, if you have some kind of torch preheating both parts to 200-300°F would be beneficial but certainly not required.

JCB Loader to Skid Steer Adapter.jpg
Beveled T-Weld.png
We always like seeing during and finished pictures of projects!
 

California

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After getting one side tacked, how about temporarily tacking a bar across from the top of one hook, to the top of other one, to keep each at a right angle to the base during the project?
 

crmorse

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Anniston, AL
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Lotos 5000 SMAW/TIG/Plasma
Thank you both! Great advice. Tonight I'll work on grinding the bevels and I might also have to move the lower pin location. I'll update progress as I get past that.
 
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