Cold cut saw?
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CB
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The Evolution 14" metal cutting saw is not a "Cold Saw".
Notice that Evolution does not describe any of their S355CPS or S355CPSL 14", or S380CPS 15" saws as "cold saws", describing them instead as only "Metal Cutting Saws".
The industry term for these type of portable metal cutting saws is "dry cut saw".
Searching "dry cut saw", a number of different brands of 14" saws will be found that employ carbide tipped metal disc blades designed for cutting metal. Dry cut saws use neither abrasives nor lubricant in the cutting process. Because they use cutting tips to create chips, rather than abrasive discs to create a friction plasma that severs the material, the temperature of the chip cut material is cooler than that of the friction cut material, but still, a few sparks are created with the dry cut saw from flying chips.
A true cold saw generates neither heat nor spark. A true cold saw can operate as low as 22 rpm, whereas a dry cut saw operates at 1,300 to 1,450 RPM. A true cold saw of equivalent cutting capacity (in terms of outside dimension of the cross-sectional shapes, but ignoring material thickness) as a 14" abrasive cut chop saw or a 14" dry cut metal saw costs a minimum of $6,000, and that is just a manual version that requires the operator to apply leverage (a long handle is provided) to progress through the cut. Automated, semi-automated, and hydraulically actuated cold saws cost more... in the 5 figures.
Some examples of US manufacturers of cold saws can be found by looking at brands like Scotchman, or Dake. Here is an image of a typical manually operated true cold saw.
People often seem to conflate the terms dry cut and cold saw, because the dry cut is a heck of a lot cooler than abrasive cut. No doubt, the marketing departments of the companies who make the dry cut saws do not stand in the way of this confusion, allowing people to believe that a $400 saw can do the same work as an $8,000 saw. Based on the Evolution brand identified in the original post, I'm going to assume that you are looking to compare portable 14" dry cut saws in the $400 price range.
And on that note, there is not much to compare. The most popular brands of 14" dry cut saws currently on the market... are all made by the exact same manufacturer in Taiwan. Whether it is the Evolution, or the Fein Slugger, or the MK Morse Metal Devil... they are all the same saw, with different labels and colors. Ridgid (industrial red Ridgid, not the orange Home Depot Ridgid) also has an offering. So the choice between 14" dry cut saws is more about the support you might expect from the company who put their logo on them.
That all being said, you may find a few differences in the deck vice between brands of dry cut saws. The crank handle, screw shaft, vice stop, vice jaw, and means for locking angles can vary between models, so focus on the table and vice when eyeballing from brand to brand, rather than the motor specs. Evolution now markets a "15" version (called the 380, as 380mm is 15"), even though Evolution doesn't ship a 15" blade with it... only a 14" is shipped, because 15" dry cut blades are not common at all. I think the 380 is only available in the US, because, well, bigger is better in the US.
Speaking of the USA, since the saws are all made in Taiwan... if the desire to support Made in USA is at all a factor, then I highly recommend MK Morse, as they manufacturer all of their blades here in the USA, with USA steel. Their blade manufacturing takes place entirely in Ohio. And it is the blades that actually do the cutting. MK Morse also makes a V Block available with their version of 14" "Metal Devil" dry cut saw. That V Block makes a world of difference in properly positioning material for the most efficient cut.
And that leads me to the final thought regarding the difference between a dry cut and a true cold saw. Thickness of material. Comparing the task of cutting a 3" x 3" rectangular shop table leg to length... a dry cut saw can handle that task for tube wall thicknesses up to 1/2" max. A true cold saw can handle that 3x3 even if it was a solid bar.
Notice that Evolution does not describe any of their S355CPS or S355CPSL 14", or S380CPS 15" saws as "cold saws", describing them instead as only "Metal Cutting Saws".
The industry term for these type of portable metal cutting saws is "dry cut saw".
Searching "dry cut saw", a number of different brands of 14" saws will be found that employ carbide tipped metal disc blades designed for cutting metal. Dry cut saws use neither abrasives nor lubricant in the cutting process. Because they use cutting tips to create chips, rather than abrasive discs to create a friction plasma that severs the material, the temperature of the chip cut material is cooler than that of the friction cut material, but still, a few sparks are created with the dry cut saw from flying chips.
A true cold saw generates neither heat nor spark. A true cold saw can operate as low as 22 rpm, whereas a dry cut saw operates at 1,300 to 1,450 RPM. A true cold saw of equivalent cutting capacity (in terms of outside dimension of the cross-sectional shapes, but ignoring material thickness) as a 14" abrasive cut chop saw or a 14" dry cut metal saw costs a minimum of $6,000, and that is just a manual version that requires the operator to apply leverage (a long handle is provided) to progress through the cut. Automated, semi-automated, and hydraulically actuated cold saws cost more... in the 5 figures.
Some examples of US manufacturers of cold saws can be found by looking at brands like Scotchman, or Dake. Here is an image of a typical manually operated true cold saw.
People often seem to conflate the terms dry cut and cold saw, because the dry cut is a heck of a lot cooler than abrasive cut. No doubt, the marketing departments of the companies who make the dry cut saws do not stand in the way of this confusion, allowing people to believe that a $400 saw can do the same work as an $8,000 saw. Based on the Evolution brand identified in the original post, I'm going to assume that you are looking to compare portable 14" dry cut saws in the $400 price range.
And on that note, there is not much to compare. The most popular brands of 14" dry cut saws currently on the market... are all made by the exact same manufacturer in Taiwan. Whether it is the Evolution, or the Fein Slugger, or the MK Morse Metal Devil... they are all the same saw, with different labels and colors. Ridgid (industrial red Ridgid, not the orange Home Depot Ridgid) also has an offering. So the choice between 14" dry cut saws is more about the support you might expect from the company who put their logo on them.
That all being said, you may find a few differences in the deck vice between brands of dry cut saws. The crank handle, screw shaft, vice stop, vice jaw, and means for locking angles can vary between models, so focus on the table and vice when eyeballing from brand to brand, rather than the motor specs. Evolution now markets a "15" version (called the 380, as 380mm is 15"), even though Evolution doesn't ship a 15" blade with it... only a 14" is shipped, because 15" dry cut blades are not common at all. I think the 380 is only available in the US, because, well, bigger is better in the US.
Speaking of the USA, since the saws are all made in Taiwan... if the desire to support Made in USA is at all a factor, then I highly recommend MK Morse, as they manufacturer all of their blades here in the USA, with USA steel. Their blade manufacturing takes place entirely in Ohio. And it is the blades that actually do the cutting. MK Morse also makes a V Block available with their version of 14" "Metal Devil" dry cut saw. That V Block makes a world of difference in properly positioning material for the most efficient cut.
And that leads me to the final thought regarding the difference between a dry cut and a true cold saw. Thickness of material. Comparing the task of cutting a 3" x 3" rectangular shop table leg to length... a dry cut saw can handle that task for tube wall thicknesses up to 1/2" max. A true cold saw can handle that 3x3 even if it was a solid bar.
downsizingnow48
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Outstanding reply by CB.
I have the Makita 1230 dry cut saw with 12" blade. It has a sturdy base and hinge, and an excellent clamp.
I have the Makita 1230 dry cut saw with 12" blade. It has a sturdy base and hinge, and an excellent clamp.
CB
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Yes, that Makita saw has been around a long time, and is NOT one of the menagerie of rebranded dry cut saws recently popularized by the current crop of Fein, MK Morse, and the marketing company Evolution. The Makita saw is made by Makita.
The trueness of a hinge throughout the entire 90 degree arc swing of travel, and the integrity of the vice / clamp, the flatness of the table, and the perpindicularity of the hinge swing relative to the table... are the qualities that influence a truer cut that saves time by avoiding refinishing, or cutting large and sneaking up on the right size with a 12" sanding wheel. It is often said that the merits of any saw lies in the fence/table, and this is true with a drycut saw... much more so than an abrasive chop saw, because the chop saw blade wanders and tacos with temperature, such that true accuracy is unachievable. But a dry cut saw stands a good chance of making clean and correct cuts, with a good base assembly and a careful operator.
The trueness of a hinge throughout the entire 90 degree arc swing of travel, and the integrity of the vice / clamp, the flatness of the table, and the perpindicularity of the hinge swing relative to the table... are the qualities that influence a truer cut that saves time by avoiding refinishing, or cutting large and sneaking up on the right size with a 12" sanding wheel. It is often said that the merits of any saw lies in the fence/table, and this is true with a drycut saw... much more so than an abrasive chop saw, because the chop saw blade wanders and tacos with temperature, such that true accuracy is unachievable. But a dry cut saw stands a good chance of making clean and correct cuts, with a good base assembly and a careful operator.
Lis2323
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I have 2 Evolution saws that I horse traded for. A slide mitre and a 14'. Both seem ok. I mostly use them in a pinch when I don't feel like running the band saw.
flyerdan
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A cold saw will have a coolant pump that floods the blade with soluble oil B, or some similar coolant. They make nice clean cuts with very little burring on the back side, and will run all day as fast as you can feed it. The blades are extremely hard and brittle, and the work needs to be clamped well as they don't tolerate any wiggle room.
If you have 3 phase available, see if you can scrounge a good used Brobo. They are German made and have a great table that swivels 45 degrees either way and locks anywhere so you can get to about 1/2 of a degree.
If you have 3 phase available, see if you can scrounge a good used Brobo. They are German made and have a great table that swivels 45 degrees either way and locks anywhere so you can get to about 1/2 of a degree.
Chiefwebb
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I too have the Makita 1230 dry cut saw after comparing the squareness against the DeWalt with a square. It has served me well and makes very accurate 90 degree cuts in square tubing.
I have an 14" Evolution, I feel its an easier cleaner, cooler and square cut. The abrasive saw was just dirty and a lot of effort. I'm just a hobbyist welder, but I am happy with spending the extra money for the Evolution. Now blade replacement is steep $75-100, I'm still on the original blade. (I heard you can sharpen it but never had yet) I had it for 1 year, so far so good on reliability. I wanted to get a band saw but budget concerns.
Great info CB, thank you for taking the time to type that all out.
I actually was aware of a "real" cold cut saw was but you knew what I meant and yes, that term gets thrown around all the time.
I will look into getting the MK Morse and at least get some money back to the USA.
I actually was aware of a "real" cold cut saw was but you knew what I meant and yes, that term gets thrown around all the time.
I will look into getting the MK Morse and at least get some money back to the USA.
CB
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Good on you for supporting MK Morse. I don't work for MK Morse, but let me tell you what I know about the company, because I do buy their blades, from my local carbide blade sharpener, who I've purchased from for the last 40 years. He has been in business, at the same location, for 45 years. That's just the retailer/sharpener.
Now let's talk about the MK Morse the company. The last person I spoke with at MK Morse, who happened to pick up the phone when I called with a procedural question about a month ago, has been with the company for 44 years. Are you starting to get the picture? Let's go back a little further.
The MK Morse Chairman of the Board is Marie B Morse, who I understand is now 80 years old, and still shows up at the plant everyday. It was either her husband, or her father (I forget which) who founded the company in 1963. Mr. MK Morse was actually a band saw blade salesman prior to founding his own manufacturing company. What frustrated him with selling band saw blades is that he would make the sale, but the product would be out of stock at the company he worked for. He believed he could do better.
When he began MK Morse, his mission was to never be out of stock. This is just the opposite of "just in time manufacturing", and requires an investment and commitment to one's product and customers. MK Morse keeps 9 months of manufactured deliverable inventory in stock good to go. COVID crisis? Not a problem, The blades are already made, ready to ship. But it goes even further than that...
MK Morse also stocks 9 months of raw manufacturing material to make the blades. So while they are selling the 9 months of inventory, they have the capacity on hand to manufacture an additional 9 months of inventory. This mindset grew out of Mr. M.K. Morse's personal frustration at his old sales rep job, which drove him to build a blade company here in the USA, now employing 500 Americans.
After re reading this, it sure sounds like I work for MK Morse, or might benefit financially from people buying MK Morse blades. You'll just have to believe that neither is true. I have no association with MK Morse. I just believe in supporting a company who does things like this:
And this (for their local community, kids, and employees)
And finally, if the foregoing does not resonate inside the heart, consider at least giving thanks to a company who produces a training video to edify the minds and hands on the best practices in the use of a 14" dry cut saw:
Pretty cut and dried.
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Bunchgrass
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I own a 14 inch Evo too. WAY less mess than abrasive blade! Works great.
JWeir
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I bought a 14" Evo saw for short money a year ago. Couldn't believe how much nicer it was to use than an abrasive cut off chop saw. Clean cuts, quicker, without the dust and the frequent blade changes and the stock stays cool. Now, it is what it is, a basic chop saw. Miter changes are nothing precise, the table is stamped steel (they have a cast model for more $ and mine is in a base off my welding table so not a problem for me). Now that I see how much better this type of saw is, I will replace with an MK Morse one when it dies. I will never have an abrasive cut off chop saw again.
Lis2323
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I know EXACTLY how you feel. BUT. If you have the room I would NEVER after rid of the abrasive saw. Excellent t to have around for those odd shaped pieces that are difficult to clamp securely in the vise and cutting metals of unknown hardness.
Here is my 35 year old Makita abrasive and newer dry cut saws. Both used daily.
JWeir
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Lis2323, you are right there. You must clamp the dry cut saw which isn't always possible (plus for harder materials) having both is the best of both worlds.
A-one
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I bought a Rage 2 a couple of weeks ago. Im just a hobbyist, and have never owned the abrasive chop saw. Anything that needed to be cut was cut with a 4½" angle grinder, so that was an upgrade for me.
Im probably going to hate it after I wear the blade out. And it will happen sooner than later since I'm always cutting bed frames to make something. I think it will be ok once I get my scrap pile down. Im going to start buying the steel for my projects.
As far as the saw though, I like it. It makes repetitious cuts go along faster. It doesn't get the cuts 100% square, but I can deal with the little that they're off. They come out better than I get them with a cutoff wheel. Cold and ready to handle after the cut. Very minimal burrs, if there are any at all. I think the saw might have been a return or something. I bought it off a guy for $160, in the box, with the power cord still ziptied and bagged. Couldn't pass it up.
Im probably going to hate it after I wear the blade out. And it will happen sooner than later since I'm always cutting bed frames to make something. I think it will be ok once I get my scrap pile down. Im going to start buying the steel for my projects.
As far as the saw though, I like it. It makes repetitious cuts go along faster. It doesn't get the cuts 100% square, but I can deal with the little that they're off. They come out better than I get them with a cutoff wheel. Cold and ready to handle after the cut. Very minimal burrs, if there are any at all. I think the saw might have been a return or something. I bought it off a guy for $160, in the box, with the power cord still ziptied and bagged. Couldn't pass it up.
dragoneggs
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Thanks for the great post on dry cut saws, CB! I am looking forward to the day that I can ditch my DeWalt abrasive cut off saw for a dry cut saw. I am already a big fan of MK Morse as I use their hole saws and have a nice kit from 3/4in to 2-1/2in plus additional diameters as I have needed them. Very impressed with their quality. Thanks to you I am researching the 'Metal Devil' as I didn't know MK Morse made dry cut saws and was probably going to get an Evolution.
Oldtoad
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No one has mentioned costs.
Have a Harbor Freight abrasive, aware of the limitations, it was short money, with coupon.
What should I expect to pay to cut stainless tubing for a bike turbo?
Have a Harbor Freight abrasive, aware of the limitations, it was short money, with coupon.
What should I expect to pay to cut stainless tubing for a bike turbo?
Ken Kegris
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I have the evolution 14 had it 10 years and it cuts great, I try not to cut the hard stuff, sparks galore, but very cool to the touch. Must apply steady pressure and listen to the sound pull the motor down some but keep it steady. They have a blue blade for regular steel and a orange blade for thinner stuff but I use whats on at the time, cost is about 130.00 per blade.