Removing rusty bolts

[Bearskinner]

Without having to cut them to remove them, it’s nice to have a small oxyacet tip to heat up a nut and bolt combo to get it apart. Helping a buddy do some work on a 20 year old Toyota 4x4.

 

[sonny580]

any nut that is where you can get a big ole oxy/acy torch at will come loose. Had several on my Case 310 crawler final drive cases that had to be heated red hot TWICE before they came off! ---- will put new nuts back on when it goes back together. studs are fine, so just need new nuts!

 

[jhn9840]

any nut that is where you can get a big ole oxy/acy torch at will come loose. Had several on my Case 310 crawler final drive cases that had to be heated red hot TWICE before they came off! ---- will put new nuts back on when it goes back together. studs are fine, so just need new nuts!

A dab of anti seize goes a long way in case there is ever a next time you need to get it apart.

jhn9840
John

 

[sonny580]

Ya! -- I have a jar of it and do use it on most bolts/nuts I mess with. Saves a LOT of headaches later on. I never plan on taking this 310 apart again, ---BUT they are notorius for breaking reverse idler gear needle bearings so I want the nuts and bolts like zippers on this one!

 

[MarineScott]

Without having to cut them to remove them, it’s nice to have a small oxyacet tip to heat up a nut and bolt combo to get it apart. Helping a buddy do some work on a 20 year old Toyota 4x4.

How small of a set up do you use? What size would be the most economical without being too small or big?

 

[Bearskinner]

Heat and anti seize is the best way to go. I tell people all the time, everything works better with lots of ( antiseize) lube.

 

[CA_Bgrwldr]

How small of a set up do you use? What size would be the most economical without being too small or big?

Would guess something like Lincoln's Port-a-Torch kit, I have the Bernzomatic Cutting/Welding/Brazing Torch Kit, and can rarely get the flame right. when I do, the heat just isn't there.

If not looking at wanting to spend $300 on a mini oxy kit, you might consider trying just MAP gas.

Another option for rusted nuts and bolts, is a nut splitter., which anymore is what I grab when the nut wont break lose.

 

[Bearskinner]

I used to use the little carry set a lot, but that needed to be portable for working in buildings, carrying it around. I picked up my big set, on a cart for $100. On craigslist. An older gentleman had it in his garage and never used it. The tanks were expired, but were half full and still had the stickers from a large supply store.they recerti fied them ( exchange) no charge as they were from their own stock.

 

[sonny580]

nut splitters are a waste of money-----they wont fit in the places you need to get a nut off of. ----- most of the ones I have to deal with are hard to even get the torch on them!
As for torch size, I use linde ws acty. tank and the biggest oxy. tank they have to go with it. Torch is standard Victor style head.---- heats fast which is what you want! slow heating can damage nearby parts PLUS you need fast heat in small place to shock the nuts loose.! slow heat wont do that so is a waste of time!

 

[Bearskinner]

And when all else fails, hit that OXY lever and blow the whole thing off.

 

[CA_Bgrwldr]

nut splitters are a waste of money-----they wont fit in the places you need to get a nut off of. ----- most of the ones I have to deal with are hard to even get the torch on them!
As for torch size, I use linde ws acty. tank and the biggest oxy. tank they have to go with it. Torch is standard Victor style head.---- heats fast which is what you want! slow heating can damage nearby parts PLUS you need fast heat in small place to shock the nuts loose.! slow heat wont do that so is a waste of time!

I have had good luck with them with rusted or crossed threaded nuts on automotive or trailer suspension components.

 

[Bearskinner]

I have had good luck with them with rusted or crossed threaded nuts on automotive or trailer suspension components.

That’s precisely the bolts that usually need to be cut off with a cut of four wheel or torch!

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have never found a use for a nut splitter. If I can get a torch in to it, I can cut off the nut without damaging the threads, did it a lot with rarely even a knick in the threads. In worst case, a tri-corner file will touch up the threads to good condition.

 

[Bearskinner]

If you can get to it, blue it off, and replace it

 

[CA_Bgrwldr]

That’s precisely the bolts that usually need to be cut off with a cut of four wheel or torch!

Has to be the difference between CA rust and the rust you get.

 

[Bearskinner]

I’ll agree with that. Pretty much everything here is 4x4 or all wheel drive for a reason. 2 wheel drive trucks don’t do well. Calif is mostly brown and dry, I live in a rain Forest, and we get lots of snow, there’s 2 seasons. Green then white.

 

[CA_Bgrwldr]

I’ll agree with that. Pretty much everything here is 4x4 or all wheel drive for a reason. 2 wheel drive trucks don’t do well. Calif is mostly brown and dry, I live in a rain Forest, and we get lots of snow, there’s 2 seasons. Green then white.

In my area of CA, we get all 4 seasons, we just don't salt/brine our roads for ice, when we do, it just the bridges, so unlike those areas that do, whatever rust we get here is limited to just that caused from rain water, or a leaking battery. There are areas that are wanting to use salt over just sand, not sure if they got the OK for it or not. The worst rust, and by that I mean for CA, would come from the coastal areas, then that is usually just sheet metal issues.

 

[Gary Fowler]

That is one thing that I dont miss from living in snow country. Just one winter in Buffalo NY go some rust started on my car fenders. Now my 2007 truck has no rust and even the 2003 Bravada that I gave to my daughter is still pristine. Here in the South, you can actually wear out the engine with 250-300K miles on it and still have a good body.

 

[Bearskinner]

I know every time I go to the people’s republik of Kali, to visit relatives, I’ll pick up a boat, motorhome, truck etc. not only are they from a clean dry environment, those folks just buy toys, and don’t use them! So many really almost new vehicles, that just sit around and get used once or twice a year.

 

[MrCreosote]

Use the largest tip or cutting head you can so that the nut heats up before the bolt, expands relative to the bolt and breaks the rust crystals. If you use small tip, you don't get a big temp differential between them.

Another trick is to use an impact gun at a very low setting - the "hammer" will break up the rust crystals.

When you get the nut starting to turn, use compressed air repeatedly to blow out as much loose rust as possible as you work the nut free.